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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.